EOS R6 troubles
-
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Jul 14, 2019 6:00 pm
EOS R6 troubles
Hey all,
I finally got the chance to start shooting aircraft with my Canon R6 and Tamron 100-400 but have run into a problem. So no matter what I do, what settings I change, the photos come out blurry. Does anyone use this set up and not have this issue? If so, how do you shoot to get around it? (Currently shooting a formation of T-34s at 1/250th (for prop blur) but everything is blurry)
P.S: things I’ve tried: raising shutter speed, going through IS modes (1,2,and off), changing AF modes (cases)
I finally got the chance to start shooting aircraft with my Canon R6 and Tamron 100-400 but have run into a problem. So no matter what I do, what settings I change, the photos come out blurry. Does anyone use this set up and not have this issue? If so, how do you shoot to get around it? (Currently shooting a formation of T-34s at 1/250th (for prop blur) but everything is blurry)
P.S: things I’ve tried: raising shutter speed, going through IS modes (1,2,and off), changing AF modes (cases)
0 x
Well, "blurry" is vague in terms of what's happening, because with a lens that long, you could have motion blur even at 1/250. Blurry could be missed focus, as well.
With my cameras through the years, I've found widely different levels of performance in the AF systems, but of course the newer systems with huge numbers of sensors do a lot better than the older cameras with 11, 5, or even a single AF sensor. I don't know what Canon calls it, but Nikon has a focus priority setting that can be adjusted so that the shutter will not fire unless the AF system has locked onto something and focused properly. Nikon calls the choices release priority (Shutter will fire regardless of focus state) or focus priority (shutter will only fire with a subject in focus.)
I guess the first thing to determine is that the camera is focusing at all by using the lens on still subjects, like a building down the street or something. Pick something a few hundred yards distant, but not miles and miles, so you'll emulate the distance you'd see in an air show.
Do you have (or can you borrow) another long lens you can use for such a test? My own personal experience with Tamron is not the best, about a 50/50 shot for any particular example giving accurate focusing. I can't come up with anything better than that.
With my cameras through the years, I've found widely different levels of performance in the AF systems, but of course the newer systems with huge numbers of sensors do a lot better than the older cameras with 11, 5, or even a single AF sensor. I don't know what Canon calls it, but Nikon has a focus priority setting that can be adjusted so that the shutter will not fire unless the AF system has locked onto something and focused properly. Nikon calls the choices release priority (Shutter will fire regardless of focus state) or focus priority (shutter will only fire with a subject in focus.)
I guess the first thing to determine is that the camera is focusing at all by using the lens on still subjects, like a building down the street or something. Pick something a few hundred yards distant, but not miles and miles, so you'll emulate the distance you'd see in an air show.
Do you have (or can you borrow) another long lens you can use for such a test? My own personal experience with Tamron is not the best, about a 50/50 shot for any particular example giving accurate focusing. I can't come up with anything better than that.
1 x
-
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Jul 14, 2019 6:00 pm
Sorry yeah, I realized after writing that “Blurry” is probably a bit too vague. I’ve checked focus and it locks on for still subjects and *some* tracking shots. I’ve had the lens for a few shows now on different bodies and with my Canon 6D2 the lens was rock solid but now on my R6 it’s having difficulties (that don’t appear to be related to focus)
I’ve tried without IS and the keeper rate is a bit better but still not as good as it used to be but it also seems I have communication problems between the lens, adapter, and body which could be causing all the grief.
I did manage to get my hands on a Tamron 150-600 G2 which isn’t having the the communication errors and the keeper rate is better (but still not as good as it used to be, leading me to think there is still something off with my settings)
I’ve tried without IS and the keeper rate is a bit better but still not as good as it used to be but it also seems I have communication problems between the lens, adapter, and body which could be causing all the grief.
I did manage to get my hands on a Tamron 150-600 G2 which isn’t having the the communication errors and the keeper rate is better (but still not as good as it used to be, leading me to think there is still something off with my settings)
0 x
Sorry to hear you are having issues; to me it sounds like it is hardware rather than settings. I suppose it is possible you have a focus offset dialed in or something, but that'd be hard to do accidentally. I'd be curious if a native R series lens still showed issues. Sorry I don't have more input!
0 x
Ryan Sundheimer
www.AirshowStuff.com
www.AirshowStuff.com
-
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Jul 14, 2019 6:00 pm
Thanks for the reply, I kinda thought it would've been a setting thing too except under different circumstances everything was fine. I ended up using a Tamron 150-600 G2 for the show and got *some* results out of it. still no where close to previous years but at least I got something. Plan is to hopefully rent or buy the RF 100-500 and see if I have any issues but I'm pretty sure it's just a problem between third party EF lens and the R6
0 x
I have the R5 with the 100-500 and i had similar issues at the columbus show. After about 3 days of frustration and dissapontment I discovered a setting in my autofocus menu was set to continuous focus. I turned that off and since then my pictures have come out much sharper. Try that and see if that helps. I still use AIservo but with that continuous focus off.
0 x
Blurriness in aircraft photos can be frustrating, but there are a few things you can consider to improve your results.GarrettR111 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 11:47 pm Hey all,
I finally got the chance to start shooting aircraft with my Canon R6 and Tamron 100-400 but have run into a problem. So no matter what I do, what settings I change, the photos come out blurry. Does anyone use this set up and not have this issue? If so, how do you shoot to get around it? (Currently shooting a formation of T-34s at 1/250th (for prop blur) but everything is blurry)
Sex in a relationship offers numerous benefits beyond physical pleasure. It fosters emotional intimacy, strengthening the bond between partners by enhancing trust and communication. Intimacy and sex live builds a deeper understanding, leading to a more satisfying emotional connection. Physically, sex releases endorphins, reducing stress and promoting relaxation, ultimately boosting mood and overall well-being. Regular sexual activity can improve immune function and promote better sleep. Additionally, it can increase feelings of closeness, reignite passion, and solidify the emotional connection between partners. Ultimately, a healthy sexual relationship contributes significantly to a fulfilling and harmonious partnership, benefiting both individuals emotionally, physically, and psychologically.
P.S: things I’ve tried: raising shutter speed, going through IS modes (1,2,and off), changing AF modes (cases)
Shutter Speed: While you mentioned shooting at 1/250th for prop blur, it might be too slow for getting sharp images, especially if you're handheld. Try increasing your shutter speed to freeze the motion.
Stabilization: If you're using a slower shutter speed, be sure to use a tripod or monopod to minimize camera shake.
Auto-Focus: Make sure your autofocus settings are appropriate for moving subjects. Continuous or AI Servo mode can help track moving aircraft effectively.
Aperture: Adjust your aperture to a setting that gives you a good depth of field while allowing enough light. This can help with both sharpness and prop blur.
Practice and Patience: Shooting moving aircraft takes practice. Keep experimenting with settings and shooting different aircraft to improve your technique.
Image Stabilization (IS): Be sure to turn IS on, especially if you're handholding the camera. IS can help reduce blur from camera shake.
Light Conditions: Pay attention to lighting conditions. Shooting in good light can significantly improve your results.
Last edited by chikara on Mon Nov 20, 2023 7:09 am, edited 2 times in total.
0 x
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest